Exotic and beautiful birds grace the trees
in the garden of the elegant hotel, a sixteenth-century
convent converted into a luxury facility. The birds
occasionally squawk, but they do not move from their
branches because they can no longer fly. They have had
their wings clipped, and are placed in their positions by
the staff every morning so that their magnificent plumage
can be admired by the hotel's guests. This practice can
work as a metaphor for the combination of beauty and
cruelty that characterizes the Central American country of
Guatemala.
The town of Antigua Guatemala, just an hour's drive from
the capital Guatemala City, was the first colonial capital
of the Central Americas, built by the Spanish
conquistadors. The picturesque town is now a UNESCO world
heritage site, delighting visitors with its charming
squares, impressive colonial architecture and chic shops
and restaurants. All around, spectacular views of the
mountains and a nearby volcano help to explain why – in a
country filled with tension and periodic violence – this
town remains an oasis, a favourite pleasure-ground for the
elite of the entire region.
The lifestyle of the rich in this town appears to be
gracious and expansive, in a manner, long forgotten in the
rest of the world. A wedding at the same hotel featured
guests in evening gowns that could have come straight from
the sets of 'Gone with the Wind', and with the same degree
of elegance combined with racial disparity between the
servers and the served. Elsewhere in the country, things
are far from being so serene or secure. Guatemala remains
a country of extreme inequality, severe and continuous
oppression of the majority of the population, and violence
that is never very far from the surface of society. Recent
events have only confirmed the feeling of insecurity among
most of the people, as life remains affected, both
economically and politically.
Guatemala, just south of the Chiapas region of Mexico, is
the third largest country in the region, with a population
of more than 11 million and a per capita income of around
$1,700. But it is a country characterized by oligarchic
control and strong social and economic exclusion,
particularly along racial lines. Some have even described
the structure as imitating the apartheid regime of South
Africa, albeit without the legal framework.
The bulk of the population – around 50 per cent, one of
the highest in Latin America – are indigenous Mayan
people, who are among the poorest in the society. Around 2
per cent of the population are of 'European' extraction,
in whom both political and economic power are highly
concentrated. The rest are mestizos or ladinos (supposedly
of mixed racial descent). The diversity of the Mayan
population becomes clear from the fact that twenty-two
separate indigenous languages are spoken throughout the
country. The most prevalent non-Spanish language is Quiche
Maya that has 700,000 speakers, 95 per cent of whom do not
speak Spanish.
Some 57 per cent of the population is estimated to be
living in poverty, and extreme poverty affects 25 per
cent. Among the Mayan population, extreme poverty is
estimated to be as high as 70 per cent. Illiteracy is 36
per cent, yet reaches 51 per cent among indigenous women.
In some rural areas, where the majority of the population
is indigenous, illiteracy is as high as 90 per cent.
School dropout rates are as high as 81 per cent in rural
areas and 51 per cent in urban areas. Only seventeen of
every 100 girls complete primary school, and in rural
areas 66 per cent of them drop out of school before
completing the third grade.
In general, the country has among the worst human
development indicators in the entire hemisphere. With
respect to health, the deficiency is revealed in the
infant mortality rate of 67 for every 1,000 live births. A
total of 50 per cent of Guatemalan children suffer from
chronic malnutrition. Sanitary conditions are poor.
Spending for health care is barely 1 per cent of the GDP;
of this less than one-third is earmarked for preventive
and community medicine. Public health services are highly
centralized, concentrated primarily around Guatemala City,
and lack proper infrastructural facilities with equipments
being either obsolete or non-existent.
The income distribution figures confirm the picture of
inequality that is extreme by even Latin American
standards. The top 10 per cent of the population account
for half of the national income, and the top 20 per cent
of population controls 80 per cent of the GDP. Some twenty
families are said to control almost all of the country's
private agriculture and industry, and are now entering the
service industries as well.
This unequal economy and society has had a long and
troubled history, beginning with the Spanish conquistador
invasion and indigenous enslavement in the sixteenth
century, through the United States-backed military coup
against Guatemala's only reforming government in 1954,
till the present globally integrated structure that relies
on cheap labour. Guatemala is indeed the quintessential
'banana republic'.
In the late 1940s and early 1950s, attempts at
redistributive land reform were made by the military
government of Colonel Urbans followed by the regime of
President Arevelo. As a result, there was expropriation of
the substantial land held by the United Fruit Company, the
same American multinational that subsequently dominated
Latin American politics and whose activities are described
in the poetry of Pablo Neruda.
Obviously, such a situation in the backyard of US could
not be allowed to last. The US government assisted local
landed elites in engineering a military coup in 1954,
which created a dictatorship that lasted until the late
1980s. The mass resistance to this oppressive dictatorship
was led by leftist guerrilla peasant movements, of whom
there were four major factions. The resulting civil war
lasted thirty-six years, in which more than 200,000 people
(mostly Mayan peasants) are said to have been killed.
Finally, exhaustion with the continuing violence and
terror led to the emergence of a peace agreement signed in
1996, brokered by the United Nations. The agreement
promised some concessions to the indigenous people,
peasantry and urban workers, in the form of poverty
alleviation programmes, improving access to land for the
small peasantry, increasing economic activity and
employment, improving access to basic services,
consolidating the democratic system, intensifying the
decentralization process and strengthening the rule of
law.
However, given the polarization of national political life
and the continued stranglehold of the landed and business
elite on the government, the process set in motion by the
Peace Accords did not proceed very far, lost momentum and
is falling well behind schedule. In particular, the
promise of agrarian reform remains unfulfilled. Land
reform is supposed to be 'market-based', whereby,
compensation to existing landlords will be given at the
market value of the land. This effectively rules out any
significant redistribution, since the government's
available resources simply do not allow it to purchase
substantial land at prevailing market prices. Other social
expenditures remain low, and even growth has faltered in
recent years.
Guatemala's economy is dominated by the private sector,
which generates about 85 per cent of GDP. Agriculture
contributes 23 per cent of GDP, accounts for 75 per cent
of exports and around 40 per cent of employment. Most
manufacturing happens in sectors of light assembly and
food processing, and is geared to the domestic, US, and
Central American markets. While in recent years there has
been increase in tourism and export of textiles, garments
and non-traditional agricultural products such as winter
vegetables, fruit and flowers, the traditional exports of
sugar, banana, and coffee continue to represent a large
share of the export market.
Meanwhile, the open-trade regime has created problems of
viability for Guatemalan agriculture as well. Not only
have coffee and banana prices crashed, even subsistence
bean farming is under threat from cheaper and more
subsidized US imports. The recent downturn in world prices
has contributed to Guatemala's relatively slow growth over
the past two years. The government sector is small and
shrinking, with its business activities limited to public
utilities – most of which have now been privatized – ports
and airports, and a few development-finance institutions.
This has created an economy in which the struggle for
basic survival dominates the existence of the majority of
the population. In the rural areas, less than 2 per cent
of the population owns at least 65 per cent of the land
and resources. Nearly 80 per cent of all the farms are
less than 3.5 hectare and occupy just over 10 per cent of
the land, mostly in the central, less fertile, hilly
areas. Small peasants, nearly two-thirds of whom are of
Mayan descent, are restricted to these small, largely
unviable holdings. They are therefore forced to migrate to
large plantation farms – the sugar and coffee plantations
in the Pacific coast – for seasonal wage-work. These
seasonal workers join with the permanent labourers to
drive the large agro-export industry that creates more
than half of all export earnings.
The entrenched latifundio–minifundio system is enforced
through the powerful political alliance of the landowners
(National Farmers and Ranchers Association, and CONAGRO)
whose interests are typically protected by the corrupt and
deadly military. Meanwhile, the rich landlords cope with
the falling profitability of agriculture by diversifying
into other areas. One of the largest landlords, the
Gutierrez family, has moved into the fast food business
through a very successful chain of restaurants ('El Pollo
Campero') across Central America, and also owns the
private TV channel Guatevision.
Most non-agricultural business is located around the urban
centre of Guatemala City, home to more than 1.5 million
people. Migrants who have been driven to the city by the
unequal distribution of rural land and the growing
non-viability of agriculture, have created a pool of
cheap, desperate and disorganized labour. This has led to
the emergence of a maquila industry for garments in
particular, mostly directed by US investors. The
government's export strategy remains confined to easing
labour laws in the maquila industry and the free trade
zones. The workforce in this sector is composed mainly of
young women between eighteen and twenty-five years,
typically working in poor and insecure conditions.
The other survival strategy for the poor is migration. A
total of 10 per cent of the entire population of the
country is now estimated to be living in the United
States, and the second and third largest 'Guatemalan'
cities are now Los Angeles and New York respectively. In
some parts of the country, this has depopulated the area
of young people, and also created a remittance economy
whereby household survival is linked to the remittances
sent by such migrant workers, who are typically at the
bottom of the labour market hierarchy in the US.
Current politics hold little promise for the ordinary
people of Guatemala. Elections are due in November, but
the main parties remain controlled by the elite, and
represent a choice between neo-liberal marketist control
and semi-fascist control. People who advocate human
rights, including associates of the Nobel prize-winning
Mayan peasant-activist Rigoberta Menchu, are routinely
attacked, and even murdered. The partially US trained
military continues to act with impunity in the repression
of all acts of reform and empowerment. This dominates the
social consciousness of Guatemala, especially among the
rural, indigenous Mayan population, who have been and
remain the main targets of the military.
The Inter-American Development Bank has described
Guatemala as one of the world's five most violent
countries, citing instances of (often politically
motivated) murders, the treatment of indigenous people by
the military and police, as well as the increasing
prevalence of vigilante law and lynching in a countryside
bereft of police. A report published in June 2000 by
Dallas Morning News predicted that guns would outnumber
people in Guatemala City by the year 2001, and this may
well have been achieved.
The most recent instability concerns the presidential
ambitions of General Efraín Ríos Montt, a former ruler who
was associated with one of the darkest periods of
Guatemalan history. He was put in power by a military coup
in 1982 and served until 1983. During his term as
president, the Guatemalan military carried out a 'scorched
earth' campaign of hundreds of massacres, tens of
thousands of extrajudicial executions, and – according to
a UN-sponsored truth commission – 'acts of genocide'. The
regime destroyed and murdered entire villages, creating
barbwired, Spanish-only speaking 'model villages' in their
place, using methods of documented torture and, in
general, creating an environment of fear and terror
throughout the countryside.
Ríos Montt is currently the President of Congress and the
head of the Guatemalan Republican Front (FRG), the
political party of the current president, Alfonso
Portillo. He is widely acknowledged as the real power
behind the throne. He made two attempts to run for the
presidential elections in the 1990s, but his candidacy was
barred by a provision in the 1985 Constitution that
prohibited people who had participated in military coups
from becoming president. Guatemala's electoral court and
the Supreme
Court both reaffirmed that prohibition, ruling against his
candidacy on 22 July.
In response to that decision, on 24 and 25 July, there
were major riots as armed mobs of ex-paramilitaries and
officials, allegedly organized and financed by the FRG,
held Guatemala City to ransom. In the international press,
the coverage focused on the violence near the US Embassy,
but it was far more directed to local targets.
Individuals, especially those associated with human rights
groups and peasant and workers' movement, were attacked,
buildings and institutions destroyed and properties
burned. Ríos Montt and members of the FRG allegedly
involved in the events, deny any responsibility for
orchestrating them despite the circumstantial evidence
pointing to their involvement.
The court meanwhile heard motions by two political parties
concerning the constitutionality of its original ruling of
14 July in Ríos Montt's favour. On 30 July, the
Constitutional Court confirmed its ruling that Ríos
Montt's candidacy for President in the November 2003
elections was admissible. This admission contradicted its
own previous rulings. However, this time around, three of
the seven judges on the court have close ties to Ríos
Montt and his party. The contorted argument used to
justify the decision was that the ban would not be
applicable for Ríos Montt as his seizure of power occurred
three years before the law was adopted.
While the situation may appear depressing, there are also
signs of protest and revival of mass politics, especially
among the indigenous population. In the rural highlands,
Quezaltengo has recently elected an indigenous mayor. In
some places, peasants have forcibly occupied land and now
cultivate it collectively. Civil rights groups and
activists for economic and social justice remain active
despite repeated threats and intimidation. These brave men
and women who continue to fight oppression and repression,
and represent a very long struggle of the Guatemalan
people for the minimal enforcement of their rights, do
give some indication of hope for the future.
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